How to hike Grand Canyon Rim-to-Rim

How to hike Grand Canyon Rim-to-Rim

How to hike Grand Canyon Rim-to-Rim

Is Grand-canyon rim-to-rim hike on you bucket list?  You can still hike it this summer. There are still spaces available in Cottonwood, Phantom Ranch and Bright Angel campgrounds even though the official time for summer permit lottery ended. Here is how to hike Grand Canyon Rim-to-Rim.

How to hike Grand Canyon Rim-to-Rim

Grand Canyon Campgrounds availability from National Park Services website

July and August are the hottest months in Grand Canyon, at the same time you have the highest chance of getting hiking permit because the number of applicants for those months is very low. I hiked Grand Canyon twice, in August 2004 and in July 2016. Both hikes were great and both times it was crazy hot in Phantom Ranch and Bright Angel campgrounds.

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Thermometer at Bright Angel Campground.

If 125F temperature on the bottom of the Canyon does not scare you away, it is your chance to hike Grand Canyon this summer. You can claim some of those available spots in campgrounds by faxing your Permit request form to Park Services ASAP.

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North Rim, Grand Canyon National Park

Procedure for planning your rim-to-rim hike and obtaining the permit.

Grand Canyon National Park has been very consistent with their application process with almost no changes in permit application since 2004. I had to mail the application in 2004 when my husband and I decided to hike Grand Canyon first time.  13 years later when we set on hiking the Grand Canyon again with friends in 2016, the applications were accepted by mail and fax. I just verified on  Park Service website that they still accept applications via mail and fax only.

Applications required only for overnight stay below the rim, so if you plan on hiking the Grand Canyon Rim-to-Rim as a day hike you will not need a permit.

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Colorado river, Grand Canyon National Park

If you are planning multi-day hike(which is more reasonable option), you will need to submit your permit application 4 month and 4-5 days prior to the months you are planning to hike. Park Service runs permit lottery every 1st of the month 4months prior to hiking month.  So, for example, if you plan your hike for September, you will need to fax your permit application couple of days prior to May 1st lottery. After the lottery all available spots in campground filled on first come first serve basis.

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On the way to Cottonwood campground, Grand Canyon National park

Download the permit application and read instructions here

When filling out the application you need to specify your  hike itinerary.

How to create Grand Canyon hike itinerary.

The best itinerary for Grand Canyon Rim-to-Rim hike is 4 days hike via North Kaibab and Bright Angel trail. It gives you enough time between hikes and also allows to enjoy the hikes between campgrounds without rushing. You will have enough time to explore the areas around campgrounds and do short day hikes. Here is my preferred 5 days 4 nights itinerary:

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Plato Point, Grand Canyon National park
Day 1.

Arrive to Bright Angel Trailhead. There is large parking lot and lodge where you can park overnight.  North Kaibab trailhead is about 4-4.5-hour drive from Bright Angel Trailhead

You will need a transportation from Rim-to-Rim. You are hiking with other people, you can drive one car to the North Rim and take a shuttle back to the South Rim to join the group (a lot of driving). You can also take a shuttle from South Rim to North Rim. There is only one company, Trans-Canyon Shuttle that runs shuttle services between the rims, it is $90 one-way (good new business idea, virtually no competition). You can reserve online on their website. I recommend booking in advance right after you get your permit by mail because the space is limited. Shuttle runs twice a day (8 am and noon)

The shuttle will take you to the North Rim campgrounds parking. Campground registration office located right on the parking lot. The Campground has a large area designated for through-hikes, it operates on first-come first-serve basis. In case you won’t be able to get a site there, you can get backcountry permit for $5 at the office (open till 6pm)

Day 2.

Hike from North Kaibab trailhead to Cottonwood Campground. It is a relatively easy downhill hike, you can stop and refresh by waterfalls. Water is available on the trail. Once you get to the Cottonwood Campground you can do a day hike to Ribbon waterfalls and take a refreshing shower there.

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North Kaibab trail, Grand Canyon National Park
Day 3.

Hike from Cottonwood to Phantom Ranch. This is also a relatively easy, mostly flat and very beautiful hike inside the canyon. There is no water on the trail, so you need to plan accordingly. Once settled in the campground make sure to get cold beer at the air-conditioned lodge.  If you are hiking in summer, this will be your best beer. You can do couple of day hikes from the campground and listen for ranger talks at the amphitheater near the lodge.

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Cold “local” beer at the air conditioned lodge, Phantom Ranch, Grand Canyon National Park
Day 4.

Hike from Phantom Ranch to Bright Angel campground. This will be your first day of accent. Beautiful views, some elevation gain, so get ready to sweat. You can hike around the Campground and see sunset on Plato point, that was the highlight of our hike.

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Bright Angel trail, Grand Canyon National Park
Day 5.

Hike from Bright Angel Campground to Bright Angel trailhead. This is the most physically demanding patk of the entire rim-to-rim hike. If you are hiking in summer, plan to start really early, potentially before the sunrise. There is water on the trail, so you can refill you bottles and cool down in the shade. The views are spectacular.  Once on the top, look down and admire your journey, have breakfast at the lodge and take a shower.

Possible variations for North Rim to South Rim hikes:

Rim-to-Rim in 3 days.

Day 1: take a shuttle to North rim and hike to cottonwood the same day

Day 2: Cottonwood to Phantom ranch

Day 3: phantom ranch to the Bright Angel Campground

Day 4: Bright angel to trailhead

Rim-to-Rim in 2 Brutal days.

Arrive by Shuttle to North rim, stay overnight in the North Rim Campground.

Day 1: Cottonwood to Phantom Ranch

Day 2: Phantom Ranch to Bright Angel Trailhead

Rim-to-Rim in 2 Super Brutal days.

Do not attempt if you do not prior hiking experience! You need to be in a good physical shape for this hike.

Day 1: Cottonwood to Phantom Ranch

Day 2: Phantom Ranch to South Kaibab Trailhead

South Rim to North Rim hike itineraries.

You can also hike it in reverse from South Rim to North Rim. Here are couple of itineraries :

Rim-to-Rim in 4 days via Bright Angel trail.

Day 1: Bright Angel trailhead to Bright Angel Campground

Day 2: Bright Angel Campground to Phantom Ranch Campground

Day 3: Phantom ranch Campground to Cottonwood Campground

Day4: Cottonwood Campground to North Kaibab trailhead

Rim-to-Rim in 3 days.

Day 1: Bright Angel Trailhead to Phantom Ranch Campground

Day 2: Phantom Ranch Campground to Cottonwood Campground

Day 3: Cottonwood Campground to North Kaibab trailhead

Rim-to-Rim in brutal 2 days.

Day 1: Bright Angel Trailhead to Phantom Ranch Campground

Day 2: Phantom Ranch Campground to Cottonwood Campground

Rim-to-Rim in 3 days via South Kaibab trail.

South Kaibab is the most beautiful trail. One day descent is not easy, but the views are spectacular, you won’t regret if you choose this trail.

Day 1: South Kaibab Trailhead to Phantom Ranch Campground

(no water on South Kaibab trail)

Day 2: Phantom Ranch Campground to Cottonwood Campground

Day 3: Cottonwood Campground to North Kaibab trailhead

Rim-to-Rim in 2 brutal days via South Kaibab trail.

Day 1: South Kaibab Trailhead to Phantom ranch Campground

(no water on South Kaibab trail)

Day 3: Phantom Ranch Campground to North Kaibab trailhead

Things to know about your upcoming hike.

  • North Kaibab trail (Cottonwood campground) open for overnight camping only May 15-October 31, The rest of the time the trail open for day hikes only.
  • South Kaibab is the most beautiful trail with best views, it is also the most difficult trail. It is a man- maid trail.
  • No water on South Kaibab trail.
  • You will need to carry a gallon of water per person per day or more even more in summer
  • Temperature can go up to 130F in Phantom ranch of Bright Angel Campground in July and August
  • There are toilets on the trails and all the campgrounds (no toilet paper or soap though).
  • No garbage collection on the trail, you will need pack our stuff out and carry it to the top.
  • No showers on the trail except for shower in Phantom Ranch (there is charge for using the shower for campers). You can dip in the creek to cool down is all the campgrounds.
  • Restaurant in Phantom Ranch serves dinner. You need to book it in advance.
  • Phantom Ranch lodge has air conditioning and cold beer.

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