Elevation: 12,630 ft to 13,044 ft
Distance: 5.7 miles
Hiking Time: approximately 9 hrs (not including 1 hr lunch and 30 mins stop at Lava Towers)
Shira Huts – Barranco Camp (Lava Towers Day)
DAY 4 KILIMANJARO CLIMB VIA LEMOSHO ROUTE
Morning hike
We started our 11 hours hike after breakfast. The weather was sunny, but cold and windy in the morning.
By noon it became cloudy and started sprinkling, snow cap of Kili was not visible anymore. It was very mentally and physically challenging day. We hiked gradually uphill on the plato for about 5 hours, then stopped for lunch.
Lunch
It was raining heavily, and our posters had to put the tent up to serve the lunch. We had lunch at 14,000 ft and even though I was tired after restless night, surprisingly, I felt much better physically compared to the day before. I couldn’t explain it as it usually takes on average 2 -3 days for Diomax to kick in.
Hike to Lava Towers
After lunch 5 of us decided to hike to Lava Towers, 15,100 ft elevation, it added another 2 hours to already long hike. As we got closer to Lava rocks, the rain stopped and Kili finally exposed itself. It was so close and so far at the same time.
Should you hike Lava Rocks?
If you find yourself questioning whether to hike to Lava rocks, do it. You won’t regret. Yes, it added about 2 hours to the total hike time, but the view was to die for, probably the best view of Kilimanjaro on the trek.
We spent about 30 mins on Lava Rocks, took many pictures and started our gradual descent to the Barranco camp. We got to the camp at the dusk. As usual, the dinner was already served and waiting for us.
Uncertainty
Half of the group started having altitude related issues. As for me, even though I was feeling much better physically, I started questioning whether I’m going to make it to the summit. I desperately wanted to get to the top, I wanted to see the glacier, the view from the summit, take two “Happy Birthday” and one “Feel Better” pictures, (more on this in Day 7 post) and just feel Uhuru peak, but on the other hand I was there for the experience. I started winter mountain climbing 3 months prior to the Kilimanjaro trip. I was lucky to meet a lot of experienced climbers who told me multiple times not to get upset if I won’t make it to the top. It can happen for variety of reasons such as altitude sickness, mental breakdown, weather conditions and others.
I met an awesome couple, Sara and Charlie, who climbed Kilimanjaro several years prior to my climb. Charlie got very sick on the mountain and they did not summit, so they decided to go next year, and they did and made it to the top no problem. I met another guy who attempted Denali but was not able to summit due to the weather and never went back. Of course, there is a significant difference between Kilimanjaro and Denali but you got an idea.
I was trying to convince myself that it is ok if I won’t summit, but it was not working.
“You will summit, but If you won’t, we will go next year”
I made it to Africa, the continent that I couldn’t even dream to visit when I was a teenager. I should have been enjoying the moment and instead I was thinking “what if I’m not going to make it?”.
I went outside and saw our trip organizer (and Pack paddle and Ski owner) Rick near the toilet talking to another climber. The areas near our portable toilets (we had two) by Day 2 became a conversation place for our group. A lot of long talks happened in that area every night. I told him: “Rick I’m not sure I’m going to make it to the summit.” and he said: “You will, but If you won’t, we will go next year, and you will make it and if not, we will go in a year again. I’ll give a big discount.” It made my day and I couldn’t understand why. I wasn’t planning to go again if I won’t make it, but all of a sudden, I became confident that I will be able to summit.
It was very long and challenging day.
You will be asking yourself the same question at some point on the trail. My advice is just keep pushing yourself, put this headset on, turn on a music and keep going. Then turn it off and look around, catch the moment, look at those lava locks, beautiful Kili covered by snow.
You will summit!!(And if not, you will go again and summit then)
